First off, the refrigerant is not Freon, it is R134. If it needs refrigerant, then you have a leak. It is illegal to add refrigerant to a system without repairing the leak. You also more than likely do not have the specialized tools necessary to repair or to charge the system correctly. Take it to a professional.

A lot of older window cranks are held in with a clip which is difficult to get out unless you buy a special tool sold at auto parts stores made just for this application. If you ask at the parts store they will know just what you're talking about. The tool is pretty cheap in price from what I remember.

Year? Just a brief suggestion, it will be difficult to find Freon and if you do, it is expensive. The newer refrigerant, 134a, is much more readily available and far cheaper. In general, connect your charging aparatus (whichever type you have) to the LOW side of the refrigeration system. Two lines lead from the compressor. One goes to the condenser (the radiator looking coil that's in front of the regular radiator) and the other line goes to the receiver/dryer. The line that goes to the receiver/dryer is the low pressure side. There should be a port somewhere near the receiver/dryer, that's where you connect to add refrigerant. You'll need a gauge to know when to stop, and you may need to jumper the low pressure switch that is on the side of the receiver/dryer, otherwise it will take forever to get enough refrigerant to start getting the system to pump.

To remove an oil dipstick tube on a 1994 Grand Am SE 3100 SFI v6, pull the oil dipstick out of the tube and remove the bolt from the bracket. Slide the base mount bracket up and off the tube.?æ

remove the 2 bolts at the bottom of the seat and then remove the bottom of the seat. Then remove the two star bolts at the bottom holding the seatbelts in place, then lift the seat on both sides to remove the back of the seat from its clips. Then your all done

If you have the message center located in the instrument cluster and controlled through buttons on the steering wheel:

1) Turn ignition switch on but do not start.

2) Press and release "Setup" on steering wheel interface.

3) Press and release "Setup" again and continue until you see a message in the message center stating, "OIL LIFE XXX% HOLD RESET = NEW"

4) Press and Hold "Reset" on steering wheel interface until you see a message that states, "OIL LIFE SET TO 100%" then release.

5) Press and release "Info" button on steering wheel interface to exit setup menus.

The oil drain plug on the 2002 4cyl Pontiac Grand AM is situated about 18 inches away from the front right wheel mounted in a horizontal position toward the back of the engine. It is a #15 size metric screw.

This is usually caused by a faulty passlock sensor requiring replacement of the ignition lock cylinder. To test:

Crank the engine momentarily (like you're trying to start it) then allow the key to return to the on/run position. Your check engine light should be on, and the radio should work, but turn the radio off if it's on, because you need to keep the battery charged.

Wait fifteen to seventeen minutes, then shut the key off and remove it. Then wait fifteen seconds (or longer) and start the engine. If it starts, you need a new lock cylinder. With the engine still running, press the key straight in. If the car stalls, you need an ignition switch also.

best to read up... Everyone should have a manual for their vehicle, and a professional shop manual should be available at your local library, just make copies of the right pages, as they are usually REFERENCE only...read up and good luck :)

you should have a tensioner assembly you can loosen up to get the belt off easier, and to slip the new one on. there should also be a schematic on the frame of your truck right where you lift the hood from. this will tell you the proper route to take with your new belt ;)

I havent done this on that model year. however, the engine is very much the same for a long time.I had to remove the shroud on top of the radiator to get enough room to work. The fan shroud is partially attached with a metal cap on top of the radiator. Two bolts on top completely exposed remove this cap.Next remove the nuts from the fan clutch assembly. Remove the fan clutch. Stand the fan clutch upright. The fluid has to stay upright as it is mounted on the water pump. I don't know why.Remove the hoses and bolts on the water pump. Remove pump.Clean the surface from where the pump was mounted. Scrape with a metal spatula or the like. Clean with a solvent. Do not use any degreasing solvents they tend to leave behind an oily residue that will impede a good seal for the gasket goo. The new water pump has to have a clean surface for the gaskett and gasket goo to take hold. When you buy the pump ask the parts guy what you hould use for gasket goo(there are several).remove the studs from the old pump. You will need them to mount the fan clutch. Do this by taking a couple of nuts threaded on one stud at a time. Cinch one on nut on the other. It will not take much torque. Twist the stud off grasping the inside nut with an end wrench.Reinstall on new pump in reverse process. Maybe wait to install pump before stud installation.Install pump: use the provided gasket with your new pump. Apply gaskett goo onto the engine side surface and the pump surface. Apply gasket to the pump. Align with bolt holes with bolts in place as necessary. Slap the booger on the engine with a couple of bolt. Start all bolts threading before you tighten. Do not over tighten. I cant tell you the torque measurement,but tighten so as to compress the gasket plenty. reattach the fan clutch. reattach the hoses. Start up the jeep with the radiator cap off. Observe the level of fluid add correct measurement of water and coolant listed in your owners manual or fluid bottle.Close the cap when fluid is to the top. Add fluid to reservoir as necessary.

Good Luck

<< palmboy 051605>>

Well, ...

For a 1994 Lumina APV (3.8L), simply rotate the tensioner using a long adjustable or simlilar wrench (for torque) or tratchet/socket counter-clockwise. The tensioner is pulley-like mechanism between the power steering pump and the water pump. Once rotated, there will be slack in the belt to remove it from the remaining components.

Use the diagram (sticker) inside the hood cabin (near radiator) as a reference for routing the replacement belt. Position belt and rotate tensioner to provide slack for final belt placement (over alternator pulley) and release tensioner.

This is probably a similar procedure for your 1993 APV.

PB

Not having done it on a Lumina I will give you an answer that applies to most cars. Under the car at the bottom of the Raditor you will normally see a valve on either the far left or right side. Losen this valve with plires but be careful because many of the valves are made out of plastic. If you cannot find a valve just losen the lower raditor hose clamp and carefully pry the hose from the raditor.

answer if vehicle has valve, it is usually left hand thread so be careful it is also awfully slow using this valve however most cars no longer have this valve so just remove bottom radiator hoes from radiator if engine is hot be careful as coolant will be hot

You have to check in the actual transmission. Jack the car up (make sure it's level or you won't get an accurate reading) then take out the bolt on the back of the tranny and put your finger in it. It should be almost level with the hole, if not than add some. You can do this with a bucket of transmission fluid and a pump attached to hose...or, simply run a hose from the transmission fluid container to the transmission, hold the bottle above the car, so you'll need a long hose, and let gravity do the work. Once it starts to spill out a tiny bit, then you know your set and just put the bolt back.

Remove the power steering pump hose. Remove the wiring harness from the power steering pump. Remove the power steering pump retaining bolts. Reverse the process to install the new power steering pump.

I believe all 93-98 Grand Cherokees are the same but basically you just pull and pry (gently of course) until the whole headlight pulls...well pops really...out. Then you have access to the back of it to change the bulb and it just pushes back in. It is a little tricky and i think a screwdriver works best but really be careful what your prying against because most of it is plastic and can crack. Taking this out will also give you access to the screws holding the parking/turn signal lights.

I've got a 1996 Jeep Grand Cherokee Laredo V8 w/ Quadtrac & have had to replace some light bulbs in it. To get the headlight off, you have to unscrew the top screw which is in the corner closest to the fender, and then there's another screw between the headlight & the front blinker even though there's absolutely no room. I could find no way to get a screwdriver or any other took to fit in there & the repair shop had no idea how to replace it. I was told by a friend that you can get an Allen wrench in there? I ended up breaking the brackets for the bottom screws on both headlights, but you can keep the headlight staying in with just the top screw.

The ignition coil is down between the firewall and the back of the engine

there are 2 clips both about 6 inches from each side ad about 4 inches down the eazyest way i found is to oper both back doors and slide the seat up to the roof until the clips undo do not pull as the clips will snap it does help to have 2 people 1 on each side. Samantha

Your security system is malfunctioning and putting your Suburban in a temporary lock down. It is shutting down your engine right after start each time. In a few hours it will reset and allow you to start your Suburban again. Needs a new distributor cap. May be a loose fuel pump electrical connection. Located on top of the fuel tank. Requires dropping the tank to access and inspect.

Vacume up all the water, even in the matting underneth, dry it completely dry towels will pick most of what is left after vaccuming, then dry it in the hot sun for a day so real dry. Then get in the car and have someone with a water hose run osts of water over all the suspected areas if no water enters then tray running your A/C on high for 20 minutes and checking to see if water is coming out of the drain pipe under the car.

I had an Accura 2 years ago with this problem on the passenger side floor it turned out to be three leaks! The moon roof & drain, windshield seal and the body seal between the firepanel and fender apron (car was in anccident but repaired)

Let us not forget clogged sunroof/moonroof drains, improperly grommeted wiring for aftermarket electrical accessories (radio equipment, extra alarms, etc.) corrosion in the floor or fender wells and leaky windshield seals.

3 possibilities,1-the air conditioner has a water drain off hose which could be blocked.2-the heater core could be leaking.3-the windscreen seal could be leakin-only wet when raining

the weatherstripping(the rubber stuff around doors, windshield and such)

i had this problem mate, check the door sill rubber for any holes as it will cause it to leak if not then take off your wing mirror an check the rubber sill behind it as this is a common source that is often over looked.i hope this solves your problem,good luck

:

I had this problem on my wife's 1998 Chrysler Sebring convertable. It turned out to be the drain holes on the bottom of the chassis, under the door`. The drains fill up with dust and dirt, then when it rains, it turns to mud and clogs the drain holes. I fixed it by using a paper clip, straightened out, and jamming it up into the drains until water ran out. It seems I've had to do this about once a year or so.

. I also had this problem on a Chevy Corsica. Turns out ther was a crack in the firewall so water running off the windshield that normally would be channeled down the body panel found its way into the car and settled on the driver's side floorboard. Once the crack was located, a little rtv sealant fixed it right up.

Could possibly be a leaking heater core as well!! Use a radiator pressure tester to pressure the system, if the pressure drops, look for the leak, or listen, some times leaks can be heard as escaping water/air.

It is screewed into the side of the engine, just in front of the starter.

when you remove it coolant will come out of the engine. Just be fast about changing it and make sure engine is cold.

First... Read your owners manual - page 226 - Turn the ingnition switch to ON (do not start) and fully depress the accelerator pedal slowly 3 times within 10 seconds and then turn the ignition switch to OFF .

First of all, you will have to pull the steering wheel with a puller suited for the job,

when you have the wheel off, turn the key to the on position, then using a small Phillips screwdriver, press the pin located on the cylinder lock housing, the key and lock

should pull out, if not , slightly wiggle the lock back and forth until it comes out. Replacement will run about 7-12.00$, The electrical ignition switch about 12-27.00$..